Reviews: Chae (1)
“The assumed reader feels closer to a restaurant chef than a home cook.”
(Hardback)
I went into Korean Slow Food for a Better Life wanting to love it. I'm interested in Korean food, and I care about cooking that takes time, place and the environment seriously. Korean cuisine — especially when it looks back to Joseon-era traditions — has always struck me as deeply practical in its wisdom: seasonal, restrained, and attuned to what’s available. At first, Chae’s book seems to share that sensibility. The opening reflects on a Buddhist monk who shaped her thinking, and on the generational knowledge passed down through her mother. The structure follows the seasons, and early pages offer the guidance for making all three Korean jangs from scratch. It presents itself as a book about patience, inheritance and rhythm. And then reality sets in. This is not, it turns out, a book for ordinary kitchens. The assumed reader feels closer to a restaurant chef — perhaps unsurprisingly — or to someone with land, storage space and a supply chain most of us simply don’t have. The equipment alone is telling: dehydrators, ice shavers and vacuum sealers appear as a matter of course, as though they were no more exotic than a saucepan. That reliance on modern technology sits awkwardly with the book’s repeated invocations of tradition. However poetic the framing, it’s hard to reconcile with a cuisine that developed long before such tools existed. The recipes themselves compound the issue: quantities and processes often make sense on a professional scale, but translate poorly to household cooking. I briefly considered returning the book, but ultimately decided to keep it. None of this makes the book without value. As a visual and conceptual reference, it’s evocative — a suggestion of how seasonality might be approached within a Korean context. Where it falls short as a practical guide, it succeeds as a provocation: an invitation to look elsewhere, to dig deeper, and to seek out versions of these dishes that feel closer to the traditions the book so clearly admires, but without quite so much machinery in the way.
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Chae: Korean Slow Food for a Better Life
Non-Fiction, Food & Drink, National & Regional Cuisine, Food by Region A-Z
Jung Eun Chae (author)
Hardback Published on: 22/08/2024
Price: £30.00

